Going all natural has been the trend for the past few years and many brands have jumped on this "all natural" band wagon and increasingly I've been seeing a lot of oil cleansers kicking about the place.
Now, while I am always skeptical of anything that claims that's the bee's knees because it's natural (cyanide is all natural too but I doubt it's good for me), oil cleansing is something that I can totally get behind because I've been using grapeseed oil to wash my face for just over 2 years now, so I feel like I can talk and relay the mistakes and triumphs I've had over that period of time regarding the OCM. The whole idea behind oil cleansing is simple; like dissolves like. It's also all about providing the skin with balance. By using the oil, you help your skin readjust itself and repair the skins natural sebum production so you don't get too oily or too dry.
I'll start from the beginning. I've never had majorly horrible skin, I have oily/combo skin that's really prone to blocked pores and I would get massive cystic pimples on my chin while I was due my period. Nothing too bad but nothing great either. My skin is also ridiculously sensitive. Like, I touched it and now it's red kind of sensitive, you know thon way?
I had tried out the Jane Iredale pressed mineral Foundation and loved it. It was a beautiful finish, covered well and just was so easy to apply...
But... it didn't love me and our love affair ended when I broke out in what can only be described as a violent assault on my face. Little pus filled warriors ran rampant on my skin and it hurt. I looked like a diseased tomato.
You may think that sounds over dramatic, and I guess it is. But anyone who has had problems with their skin can tell you how soul destroying it can be sometimes. So I was on the search for something that could help repair the damage I had unwillingly inflicted onto my skin and I came across some old blogposts about oil cleansing.
At first I was just casually interested but I've always loved DIY beauty and thought that if I had nothing to lose then I might as well try. I bought castor oil and tried extra virgin olive oil because it's what I had to hand, then sunflower because the olive oil was too heavy on my skin. But even the lighter sunflower failed me and i wasn't seeing amazing results.
I used all kinds of castor/carrier ratios too with both oils. 10%, 20%, 25%, 30%... anything higher just drier my skin out. Removed a lot of skin but dried me out! 25% seemed to be the best.
I eventually settled on grapeseed oil which has been the best for my skin. And eventually phased out the castor oil as the grapeseed was doing such a good job on its own.
However, recently, I've been noticing my skin getting a bit dodgey when I'm due my period so I've added castor oil into the mix. As you can see, it can take a while to really find whats best for your skin. I was lucky and got it in 3 but don't be afraid to buy wee bottles of things and try stuff out!
Why Oil Cleansing?
As I've mentioned before, oil cleansing uses the like dissolves like principle you learned in high school chemistry. The oil's dissolve the oils and excess sebum from the skin, as well as totally dissolving makeup and sun screen from your face. This helps the skin be able to rebalance itself because using harsh cleansers can strip the skin of oils and then you produce more to compensate and the whole vicious wheel turns again.
Healthy, balanced skin is happy skin!
How to Begin the Process
First, pick an oil. Ideally a cold pressed oil. Most cosmetic grade you find in Sallys are and most things from Holland and Barrett are too.
What oil though? This is really up to you. My only word of warning is grapeseed oil can be funny on oily skins. It's not bothered me but it irritates my sister so just be aware of that.
Good oils to try out are:
Jojoba
Grapeseed,
Extra Virgin Olive,
Sunflower,
Sweet Almond
Then you want to buy some castor oil.
What is the role of Castor Oil?
Castor oil is a really viscus oil that is used in OCM to help draw out impurities from the skin. It's not always necessary if your skin is okay with just the carrier oil but it does help.
My guide to ratios is to start low regardless of skin type and work up. They are so many different opinions on how much you should add and this is mine.
What to Put it in?
Anything
really, I bought some cute wee coloured glass bottles, but you can use
any clean and sterilised bottle you have kicking about.
Now What?
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| If you strain you can see it! Haha! |
You wash! Do it once a day, at night. Take about a grape sized amount of oil and gently rub it all over the face. Do this for as long as you can be bothered as messaging the face is really good for it and it helps dislodge all the shit from your pores. You might notice you have some wee hard bits on your hands that feel like mini exfoliator beads, those are your clogged pores! I love it but don't be too disappointed if you don't feel them. It doesn't mean it's not working.
After massaging it in, get the tap nice and hot and use a muslin/wash cloth to steam your face and gently buff away the dirt and oil from your face. Follow up with whatever you like to use after cleansers.
How Long Between Tries?
This, again, depends on you. The most important thing is know your skin. Study it (I know it's not pleasant but it's needed) and know where you normally break out, current spots and red areas on the face.
Once you know what your skin is like, give it a few days to 2 weeks to really see any real change. I say this because you could see a change, good or bad, within a few days of trying an oil.
Essential Oils
Once more, depends on you. However, be careful. The only one I personally recommend is tea tree. I don't like essential oils because they attack my nose and my skin is really sensitive to them. But do your research and pick things you think might be beneficial to you.
Beware of anything that is photosensitive or phototoxic like citrus oils. They might smell nice but not so great on the skin.
Anything Else?
Aye, be patient. Your skin isn't going to be clear overnight or even totally using this method. It takes time for you to really see differences but you will probably notice your skin looking fresher and more healthy before the spots disappear.
Also, below I have listed a really great wee website I buy all of my oils and shit from. They always have 4 for 3 deals on popular carrier oils and essential oils and if you spent over £14 you get free delivery so I highly recommend.
Stock up on Supplies
Naissance
If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment!