The Primer Saga: Episode 2 Formulations

In my last post I talked about what a primer is used for and discussed the different types of finishes a primer can create on the skin. In this post, as the title suggests, I'm going to talk about the formulations of primers and who will get the most benefit from them. This will be a slightly longer post but I feel it's important not to skim over the details so please bare with me!

The beginning is a very good place to start! There are two types of primer: Silicone and water based primers. And they work differently on the skin and interact with foundations and bases in various ways.

How do you tell the difference between the two? It's very, very simple - the feel. If it feels slippy and like a chaffing gel then it's a silicone primer. If it feels like a serum/lotion and is much lighter in texture then it is a water based primer.

If there is not testers around to feel the product (a pet hate of mine) then you can tell whether or not a primer is silicone or water based by the ingredients. Now, I know that pretty much everything has water (Aqua) listed as the first ingredient but the general rule is the if the first time you see an ingredient with -cone, -silicate, silica, -ane, etc. is high up on the list then its a silicone based primer.

An example would be Rimmel Fix and Perfect Foundation Primer :-

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Propylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Polyethylene, Talc, Dimethicone PEG 10/15 Crosspolymer, Magnesium Sulfate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Lauryl PEG 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lecithin, Fragrance, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Methylparaben, Gossypium Herbaceum Powder (Cotton), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben, Silica, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E), Triethoxycaprylylsilane, BHT, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Butylphenyl Methypropional, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Geraniol, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, May Contain ( /-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499), Mica (CI 77019), Chromium Oxide Green (CI 77288), Ultramarines (CI 77007)

As we can see, there are a lot of highlighted ingredients that are silicones and silica derived products. If you see a high volume of any of these ingredients or anything that sounds like them, then it's most likely a silicone based primer. The best way to quickly tell is that cyclopentasiloxane is usually the second or third ingredient in a silicone based primer.

Now, lets look at a water based primer to see how it compares. This is the Bourjois Paris Happy Light Matte Serum Primer:-

 AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, ALCOHOL DENAT., BORON NITRIDE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, OCTYLDODECANOL,HDI/TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, OLIVE OIL DECYL ESTERS, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PEG-100 STEARATE, C20-22 ALCOHOLS, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, DIMETHICONE, CASSIA ANGUSTIFOLIA SEED POLYSACCHARIDE, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE,SQUALENE, SODIUM GLUCONATE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, DIMETHICONOL, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, CI 15985 (YELLOW 6), CI 14700 (RED 4), TOCOPHEROL, CI 42090 (BLUE 1). 13BMT001-1

This primer as significantly fewer silicone based ingredients on the list and is a great example of a water based primer. It also has a high amount of glycerin, a great ingredient to help lock moisture into the skin.

Phew! So now we can tell the two types of primer apart. Why is this important and why do I need to know this? That's easy, both of these primers work in unique ways. 

Silicone primers are better for oily, uneven or mature skin types. The high amount of silicones in the formula help fill in lines and wrinkles and help create a barrier between the natural oils our skin products. If the oil can't get to your foundation it's going to last longer. Silicone primers are also fantastic for mineral or powder foundations as it helps stop the product from clinging to rougher or uneven patches on the skin.

Water based primers are better for people with drier or dehydrated skins as the primer's high moisture content prevents the skin from "drinking" our foundation on top of it making it last longer. These are also a great option for people who have a sensitivity to silicones.

As was mentioned in the first post of the series, you should always go for which finish you prefer when searching for a primer because formulation is far more important than whether it is matte or dewy. If you have dry skin and like a matte finish invest in a water based primer and have your exfoilating routine up to scratch to make sure you get the best out your skin! Likewise, if you are more combination/oily skin and love a dewy glow (like me) then a silicone based primer might work better for you.

But remember, it's all personal preference! I have combo skin and much prefer the feel of a water based primer on my skin. Go with what you like and what you think works well for your skin.

I think I'll have to stop there! I've put forward a lot of information in this post and haven't even begun to talk about the advantages of marrying your foundation's formulation with your primers (think like loves like) but that's another post all in itself!*

TL;DR

1. Primers can be water or silicone based.
2. Touch it! If it's slippy - silicone. Lotiony - water.
3. Look at the ingredients! Lots of -cones and -silica high up or throughout the list means its silicone based. Otherwise, it's a water based primer.
4.  Formulation if more important than finish when picking a primer. Loose guide: silicone for oily or mature skins, water for dry or dehydrated skins.

Next time, we'll have a look at 3 of my favourite water based primers.


General notes



*This is something I will touch on after we get this series out the way
Ingredients lists were found on makeupalley.com and boots.co.uk respectively.

The Primer Saga: Episode 1

In this series, I will be explaining all there is to know about under makeup primers. In order to figure out which primer will be beneficial to each of us, we first have to understand the differences between finishes, formulas and textures.

This is our introduction, our simple overview of what a primer is. As the series goes on we will look into what makes a silicone based primer different from a water based one, which primers I love, loathe and would recommend, and a wee special trick that might help some of you that have problems with spots and uneven skin!

But lets strip it right back: What is a primer? An under makeup primer is a product used after our skincare routine but before our base. They help our makeup to stay on longer and to remain looking fresh on our faces as the day goes on.

This is not the only use of a primer. To paraphrase the fabulous Laura Geller - you wouldn't paint a wall without plastering it first! And this is what a primer does! A great primer will smooth out wee uneven or textured bits on our faces and help that foundation/tinted moisturiser/BB/CC/DD/EE (okay, I'll stop) from looking cakey.

So now we know what a primer does. We're ready to go out into the big bad world and buy one! But wait, satin? Dewy? Matte? Like foundations and bases, primers come in different finishes and these give different effects -

Satin or Dewy finishes give a sheen and glow to the skin while Matte primers mattify.

Primers came in all shapes and sizes

Most people will say that you should go for a satin if you have combo/dry skin and matte if you have oily skin. And while there is logic to that, don't let it stop you from buying a satin primer if you have oily/combo skin. Just remember to powder your base in order to stop excess oil breaking shining through. Conversely, if you like a Matter finish but your skin is on the dryer side a matte primer is better than over powdering because that could accentuate dry areas. My advice is to use a primer that's going to give you the effect you want!

That's it for part one! Next week we will look into the differences between silicone based primers and water based primers and how formulations effect its uses.


TL;DR

1. Primers are used to smooth out the skin and make makeup last longer
2. There are two main finishes - satin and matte
3. Just pick whatever finish that you want. It's your skin, make it up how you like it!
4. Next week: Formulations!